We used to love Chapultepec for its friendly service and all-night hours (mostly; it closes at 2am Monday night, and is open 7am-2am Tuesday), which always helped its otherwise fair-to-middling Tex-Mex taste almost great. But since the “Lupita” addendum (due to a change in ownership), our decision to come here in the wee hours, as opposed to sleazy-motelish Spanish Flowers, is a slightly less obvious one. Okay, we still come—Ruchi’s is still worse, and Chacho’s is packed, so what can you do?

It’s a bit grimy in here, but night casts it in a more flattering list. To make your situation better, sit at the windowside (if plastic) tables under cooling ceiling fans, and enjoy the kitschy Christmas-lit bar and colorful walls. The margaritas are pretty good, with some running into the fruity, sweetish range.

Queso has a fine chile kick, but gets a quickly forming skin, so hurry on that. Its ground beef is unusually well seasoned. Sizzling fajitas deliver a meaty punch, if a want of salt. Beans are also undersalted and wimpy, shrimp are boring, flour tortillas have a short half-life, and guac feels more mushy than fresh. But the vibe, margaritas, and the cheesy enchiladas still make this place MVP in the all-night all-star game.