None of the latest branches of Smith & Wollensky boast the nostalgic patina of the Midtown Manhattan branch, which dates back to 1977.

And while Houston’s got plenty of wonderful homegrown options, this is a rare worthy inclusion…mainly for its late-night hours. It’s hard to find anything decent to eat outside of Bellaire Chinatown at midnight. Here, you have good dry-aged Prime steak, for about the highest price in town. (Did we mention you can order them at midnight?) They’re well marbled and well prepared—even the filet mignon, which can so often be flavorless and chewy—and come drowned in butter, a good cheap trick. We think they’re best with a dreamy-textured creamed spinach. The out-of-the-oven pan of bread that you start with—another good cheap trick—is deliciously doughy. Butter and beef are the best choices here; salads aren’t so great, and fish is just so-so compared with that of our superlative seafood houses.

The environment is refined, but some touches are amusing (vintage clocks and copper-shaded lamps) or Disneyish (plaques bearing names of wealthy patrons above a sort of marble frieze). A heavily California-cabbed wine list is pricey, and a classic gin martini comes beautifully rendered, if huge. For some reason, Thursdays seem to be popular with gorgeous ladies of a certain age…in case a tasty steak’s not all you like in a steakhouse.