Strikingly set in an old bank, Voice is a seamless blend of straightforward American modernism and elegant European antiquity, both in menu and design. The lounge is done up in gleaming marble and dark wood, but flat-screen TVs and rustic cowhide chairs keep it from being stuffy. The main dining room is spacious, with soaring ceilings and large picture windows letting in natural light.

The food’s much better than the traditional overpriced, underwhelming fare you find at most hotel restaurants—especially at breakfast. The kitchen was, until recently, known for its outstanding charcuterie; in general, the overall level of confidence waxes and wanes (and the menu names are revolting: “A Study in Beets” is a beet salad with sea beans and coffee oil, and is much more interesting and serious than its silly name suggests). Shoestring fries lightly tossed in truffle oil, parmesan, salt, and herbs are worth every penny. We find ourselves dining most often in the lounge on good small plates, like miniature crab cakes served with a sort of refined Sriracha.

The wine list is a studied and careful selection in which regional typicity is preferred to bankable varietals. What’s more, these mark ups are just above retail. It would be just as easy to enjoy a three-digit Vosne-Romanée here as it would a terrific $40 Italian white. Well, depends who’s paying.