100% Taquito aptly fills a need for authentic Mex-Mex in this area. The place is full of quirks, from its location in a homogenized strip along I-59, to the Mexico City taxicab that’s parked inside the restaurant, to the trompe l’oeil of dingy Mexican storefronts on the walls.

An extensive menu features sopes, quesadillas, and tortilla soup, but the appropriately tiny, delightfully cheap tacos are the headliners. Tinga (soft, gentle brisket) earns well-deserved praise, but our favorite is carne asada, whose meaty, sensationally seasoned singe epitomizes the genre. Watch for bones, which sometimes appear in the hunks of steaming, pulled meat—a sign of authenticity. But it’s in the torta—not the taquito—that the carne asada shows best. The meat’s juices, opaque from a smear of mayonnaise, fill the fluffy cavities of fresh-baked bread. Add to this a slice of ripe avocado, shredded lettuce and tomato, tangy chile, melted cheese, and optional spicy pickled carrots, and you have a sandwich that is an everyday miracle of balanced flavors and satisfying textures.

Skip the puny, underwhelming shrimp in any form, and don’t buy into the tres leches hype. For something sweet, we prefer the underappreciated cucumbers, jicamas, and oranges with chile, lime, and salt—yet another welcome dose of unexpected authenticity.