Kubo’s is one of Houston’s best-loved Japanese restaurants, but there seems to be little regulation in its execution, and so as chefs come and go the quality at this chic and lively little second-floor joint dips and soars. But lately, the daily specials often include Tsukiji-market-fresh fish, and their platings don’t read all that differently from those at laudable places like Kata Robata and Sushi Raku. The difference is more noticeable on the palate, often missing a bright-acidity component; still, it’s quite enjoyable for the price. At press time, there was a chef there specializing in pricy kaiseki meals (think Japanese haute cuisine, incorporating several different cooking methods) that you need to reserve in advance. Aside from that, however, the hot menu really doesn’t change.

As ever, if you sit at the sushi bar and ask for omakase, you can get some surprising stuff. Nothing as authentic and adventurous as, say, Nippon (but then, you really have to work those chefs to get the real deal, anyway). Now and then, the nigiri includes springy sea bass; great sweet shrimp; delicate seared white tuna; and soft, mild mackerel. The rice seasoning is pretty spot on lately, and they’ll often invent new rolls for you on the fly. That is, until things change again. (Get while the gettin’s good.)