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Fearless Critic restaurant review
DC
Food
Feel
Price
8.7
8.0
$20
Seafood, Irish
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Wed 11:30am–10:00pm
Thu 11:30am–11:00pm
Fri 11:30am–midnight
Sat noon–midnight
Sun noon–9:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

Website

Alexandria Old Town
728 King St.
Alexandria, VA
(703) 299-8384
Eamonn’s A Dublin Chipper
You’ll have to be diverted to Shannon to find fish and chips as good as these

What a great concept! Old Town’s King Street, which is too often a mixture of tourist traps and fusion-furious showcase restaurants, really needed this: a simple, honest eatery that’s both laid-back and food-obsessed. No wonder—it’s from the same chef who brought us the noble Restaurant Eve. It’s an elegant Irish pub—with such an attention to thematic detail that it feels like Disney’s Epcot—with a playfully snarky attitude.

The menu is unbelievably simple: fish and chips, basically. Really spectacular fish and chips.

What’s great about the fish and chips is that they’re made with market fish, changing daily. When was the last time you saw that in this particular preparation? A thin but tender fry-up of ray, like skate, is the tenderest fish here, but we’re still suckers for the cod. While the fish flesh inside is meltingly beautiful in your mouth, the batter is perfectly crispy—what a texture matchup!

Prawns are less exciting, if only because they’re less unique. Hand-cut fries are thick and a bit soggy—not our favorite style—but they’re good for what they are. The slaw is also well executed, and the imported mushy peas first-rate. Douse everything in lots of malt vinegar and house-made sauces for chips, including a delicious curry just like we’ve seen in Belgium. Plus there’s Guinness on draft. We unabashedly love this place. Even those of us who’ve had earth-shattering fish and chips in Norway and New Zealand and Newfoundland heartily recommend it.

After dinner, you can head to the PX Lounge next door (yes, it’s named after Pedro Ximénez, the grape behind some of Spain’s sweetest, most viscous sherries); PX is a speakeasy that’s right up there with New York’s Milk & Honey and PDT, with terrifically artisanal cocktails, all served in a very cool and exclusive atmosphere that manages to avoid being annoying. Up there, you’ll surely toast your satisfying, inexpensive dinner with Eamonn’s cheeky motto: Thanks be to cod.

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