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Fearless Critic restaurant review

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Adams Morgan
1631 Kalorama Rd. NW
Washington, DC
(202) 986-1415

Arlington, VA
900 Army Navy Dr.
Arlington, VA
(703) 413-7112

Capitol Hill
1350 Potomac Ave. SE
Washington, DC
(202) 543-1040

Harris Teeter
It’s hard to beat the Teet: collectible produce and comestible sandwiches abound

This nickname-inspiring mega-grocery store is known by many tags, all of which are quickly making inroads to the mouths and hearts of Washington area residents. “Harry T’s,” despite prices that creep well above the average, offers food that is exceedingly fresh and well presented. Rows of gem-like peaches, plums, and apricots fill the shelves during the summer, and in fall the number of different squashes rivals that found at top farmer’s markets. The organic and international food aisles are well-stocked, and the wine and beer selections are top quality; the only headache comes from navigating the Teet’s many aisles to find that last item on your list.

In addition to its overall fitness, in biological terms the supermarket might also be called an “indicator species:” its presence denotes that a neighborhood’s gentrification trajectory has passed the critical point, and the influx of wealth is inevitable. Some of the savviest real estate mavens must sit on Teeter’s board: when the supermarket comes in, you can be sure that a once-questionable neighborhood now houses, well, the kind of people who can afford to shop at Harris Teeter.

But don’t be fooled by the store’s high produce prices if you’re considering a lunchtime (or even dinner) stop. Sure, the organic cassava might send you to the cleaners, but for less than three bucks, one of Washington’s biggest subs—customized with any range of toppings—is yours to take away (Harris Teeter, needless to say, wants for a good seating area). Have a little extra cash? The on-site sushi chefs have whipped up many better-than-supermarket lunches in their day: six dollars will buy you a large serving of salmon roll; fancier combinations can push up the price a bit. And desserts are not to be missed: a four dollar crème brûlée, for example, is rich and creamy, with a crisped sweet top.

But the real draw of the supermarket is its sandwiches, made with fresh deli meats, top-quality cheeses, and crispy vegetables, although the bread, unfortunately, is a bit too puffy. Each weekday has a “special,” which goes for only three bucks: you may be stuck with Tuna on Thursday, but Tuesdays are super: that’s the day you can get any sandwich half off.

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