Pitmaster Paul Calhoun presides over racks of brisket and ribs, coaxing them to a point where smokiness reaches as close to the pinnacle as possible before rendering fat begins to spring forth in parching rivulets. What emerges is piercingly acrid brisket, capped by a thin ring of fat, and dusted with enough black pepper to spark the palate.

Smokey’s ribs are every bit the brisket’s equal—a little dark sugar and grassy heat burrowing into meaty fibers. The stand offers typical sides, including slaw, potato salad, and beans, the latter receiving a memorable boost from smoked sausage. It’s enough to make you skip the other buffet line options.

The secret here is tending and time (of course), as well as plenty of hickory—though Smokey’s real secret may be the use of two different smokers, one relying solely on wood for the brisket, the other aided by gas to soak ribs and sausage. A gas-fired smoker may seem like cheating. But the ribs carry a strong acrid taint. This place is arguably one of the best barbecue joints in Dallas-Fort Worth.