When Off the Bone enclosed a seating area, it marked the second most important occurrence on this stretch of road just south of downtown—although, quite honestly, this step toward 20th-century convenience only affects about twelve or fifteen people at a time. Like so many of the city’s more notable brisket and rib spots, seating is something of an afterthought—if thought of at all. The most significant event, of course, was the very opening of this small barbecue joint.

Off the Bone is an outpost of decent ‘cue in the parched Dallas landscape, a town not known for smoke-tinged cooks carefully toiling over time-blackened grills. Making it more distinct, owner Dwight Harvey pointedly ignores the Texas obsession with dry smoked brisket, choosing instead to turn out some of the most remarkable ribs in the city. They are tender and aggressive in flavor. Off the Bone’s sausage also stands out, again for the intense layer of smoke.

And they pay actual attention to side dishes, with firm beans and decent potato salad. The brisket can be disappointing, especially to native aficionados. But it’s a rather extraordinary joint in a city that prizes Sonny Bryan’s and other past-their-prime barbecue spots.