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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Dallas
Food
Feel
Price
7.7
5.5
$30
Seafood
Counter service

Hours
Mon–Sat 11:00am–9:00pm
Sun 11:00am–8:00pm

Features Outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

www.seabreezefish.com

Plano
4701 Preston Rd.
Plano, TX
(972) 473-2722
Sea Breeze Fish Market & Grill
A taste of New England in these lobster rolls, clams, and chowder

Sea Breeze is hardly an inviting place: school lunch tables (only smaller), paper towels in place of napkins, a walk-up-and-order system. Then again, it’s not always about the atmosphere. Besides, the place also acts as a market, stocking prepared and fresh fish for take away, including (when available) northern pike and line-caught swordfish in addition to the usual salmon, tuna, and trout.

This Plano storefront also fries up clam strips and full bellies. Both are resolute and sweet, the latter sensation furthered by yellow cornmeal crust just thick enough to strive against the bite, yet not enough to dominate. Underneath, flesh firmed by heat relaxes into chewy, though still tender, meat.

Lobster rolls match the decadence of claw meat to the sloppy, acerbic richness of mayonnaise. Stuffed into a toasted hot dog roll, it is the very essence of everyday New England. Clam chowder—also New England-style, naturally—proves even more satisfying. Lavish in texture, milky in flavor with a hint of roux rounding things out, the broth fills around the distinct savor of shellfish. And the kitchen prefers pieces large enough to make a statement without crowding the basics of milk and starch. That’s pretty neat work for a cafeteria.

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