Perhaps more than any other dining space, the French Room exudes royalty. It’s tucked in The Adolphus, the circa-1912 baroque palace erected by Missouri beer baron Adolphus Busch (Budweiser baby). It lives up to the classic billing: soaring muraled ceilings; Murano crystal chandeliers; lithely elegant arched windows; and enough gold leaf to inspire hedge-against-inflation investment commercials. Servers are assured—not overly solicitous, nor stuffy—and exactingly attentive.

Plus: The menu is exactly what it should be, which extracts a little of the culinary excitement from the experience. Sure the food is elegant, gracefully executed, and sophisticated. But it too often lacks the bold, shrewd strokes (reined in by French technique of course) applied to time-honored classics you’d expect in a room of this pedigree. Pricey? You bet. Choose from fixed-priced menus ranging from three courses to an eight-course Grand Tasting (wine pairings for each are extra).

Highlights: jumbo lump crab cakes with lemongrass lobster sauce, tomato jam, mango, and curry; crisp pork belly in five-spice sauce; or any of the swelling soufflés. The wine list is not much more than the expected orchestration of cult Cabs and marquis Burgundies and Bordeauxs. You will not dine here often, but each time will be memorable. We just wish those memories were more indelible.