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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Dallas
Food
Feel
Price
7.2
7.0
$40
Steakhouse, Seafood
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon 11:00am–10:00pm
Tue–Thu 11:00am–1:30am
Fri 5:00pm–noon
Sat 5:00pm–1:30am
Sun 5:00pm–10:00pm

Features Date-friendly, kid-friendly
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

Website

Addison
5000 Belt Line Rd.
Addison, Texas
(972) 392-9663
Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill
Kenny puts the wood to some passé preps; but don’t miss the popovers

Kenny’s is what happens when kitchens get a hold of a steak and some melted cheese and the hungry crowds go gaga over the merging. Then again, when you manage to merge a 1940s Chicago-style chophouse vibe with a suburban semi-hip crowd, what do you expect? Kenny’s gets profligate with the wood grill, firing everything from lamb to chicken to ribs to that Sterling New York strip blanketed in white cheddar, smoked bacon, and chipotle steak sauce.

From the water worlds: trout, salmon, shrimp, and tuna steak, too (weirdly, there is also a stuffed and baked fish). French onion soup is good, too, once you slice through the massively thick cheese tarp and the ahi tuna nachos with crispy wonton, wasabi aïoli, and sweet soy are as fascinating to look at as they are to contemplate.

The scene: dark, dark, dark (even a black door) with lots of wood, exposed brick, and red accents (note those high-backed banquettes against the brick wall). There’s an open kitchen in the back of the dining room where all of that wood firing takes place. Dark tables are clean and bare save for big retro saltshakers and pepper mills of considerable endowment. But forget all of that wood-fired grilling stuff for a moment. The real show stealer at Kenny’s is the popovers: as big as bocce balls in all of their eggy, steamy goodness.

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