You really must admire an upscale “gastropub” that dares not only to make its own pork rinds, but presents them in grease-stained brown paper bags. Now, it goes without saying a batch of these puffy, golden beasts will greatly diminish your odds with singles parked along the bar.

But these are beautiful by pork rind standards. They yield a satisfying crunch and gentle meaty flavor. And they are the best thing on The Pub’s menu, other than the burger and desserts (try homemade ice cream floating in a bittersweet stout or the comforting bread pudding with Jameson cream sauce). Pork chops are thin and rather supermarket-ish. Shepherd’s pie comes across as honest and filling, though not very memorable. Fries stand out only for a trio of spicy dipping sauces. Otherwise, they’re the same flaccid cuts you find anywhere in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.

Still, The Pub is a popular place, thanks in a large part to the extensive beer selection, knowledgeable staff and a spot just off McKinney’s booming old downtown square. Seating on busy nights can be scarce—they use a Darwinian first-come seating method familiar to college bars—and the crowd noisy. But it’s kid-friendly and fun.