Despite its reputation amongst outsiders, Dallas doesn’t really shine when it comes to barbecue. And neither does Houston—in fact, the best ‘cue in the state is actually found out in Central Texas, not in the big cities.

And it’s not just the tradition of barbecue that the cities are mucking up; recipes from the old rural South often falter, too, in Dallas—except at C.T.’s. Actually, most area residents must willfully seek out this South Dallas cinder block dive. Few would just wander into a neighborhood that fights against restaurant liquor licenses (because they might encourage even more dangerous loitering) on purpose. But C.T.’s is worth a wander in.

Cordoned in black iron fencing, C.T.’s belches smoky wood aromas. It boasts a massive, timeworn brick pit, blackened by decades of use. The years tell on your palate, as smoke creeps through your senses, starting when you reach for the brisket. Go for the crisp-crusted ribs—juicy—or the exquisitely seasoned sausage that animates on the palate. Also: pork chops, chicken, and chitterlings. But the kitchen understands Southern cooking, too, serving very good fried catfish from the buffet line. You just can’t get a beer to go along with it all.