El Arbol’s restored mid-century building of crisp white and mint green surrounds a gorgeous 150-year-old live oak. Sit outside, and the bleached courtyard’s geometric walls and angular stairs might evoke M.C. Escher’s impression of a 1980s Colombian druglord’s home. Inside is terrifically noisy, but appealing, with an elegant cream-toned bottom floor and a warm, clubby bar upstairs.

The dozens of small and large plates vary by Argentine influence, and success: spicy Gulf snapper ceviche (beware tooth-breaking crostini); beef heart grilled to tender, but walloped somewhat by balsamic reduction. Empanadas can be greasy; opt instead for fantastic grilled octopus, and lightly dressed, flavor-bursting salads. As for the main event, a custom-built oak-burning parrilla, the “traditional” claim is only half true. With USDA Prime, as opposed to grass-fed beef (Argentina’s lifeblood), your flavor comes from fat, not a lovely pasture-meets-cow terroir. The result’s similar to that of a mid-level steakhouse. Instead, try costillas de res, braised short ribs with a well-poached egg and zesty pick-up from quinoa gremolata.

Pad around the too-inclusive, but well-priced South American wine list with care (tip: Weinert’s terrific Carrascal only costs around $30). There’s also a faithful caipirinha, a totally Argentine Fernet Coca, and a surprising draft beer selection—plenty of reasons to sit beneath this hospitable old oak.