Fearless Critic
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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Food
6.6
Feel
7.0
Price
$90
Truluck’s
Astoundingly overpriced fare in a less-than-transportative chain atmosphere
Seafood, American
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 5:00pm–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–11:00pm
Sun 5:00pm–9:00pm

Features Live music
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.trulucks.com

Warehouse District
400 Colorado St.
Austin, TX
(512) 482-9000

Arboretum
10225 Research Blvd.
Austin, TX
(512) 794-8300
Hours
Mon–Thu 5:00pm–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–11:00pm
Sun 4:30pm–9:00pm

It would take a stroke of true luck to find anything on the menu that’s worth anywhere near what they’re charging for it at this disappointing chain seafood restaurant. Further, Truluck’s feels about as unique as, say, one of the more upscale Marriott hotels. The highly-touted stone crab claws, served cold with mayonnaise—they come, we’re told (over and over again), from the chain’s own fishery in Florida—have some good flavor and texture, but they’re nothing memorable. Prices are shockingly high: more than $25 for three large claws and almost $50 for six. Where are we, Monaco?

Best among mains is hot and crunchy trout; it’s much more palatable than the “simply grilled” pieces of fish, which come bland and sometimes overcooked, but with garlic butter (we recommend getting this butter with your crab claws; that mayonnaise just doesn’t do them justice). Salmon is overwhelmed with crab, shrimp, and overrich béarnaise. There are “steaks and chops” on the menu, too. Usually, we don’t condone getting meat at a seafood restaurant, but in this case it doesn’t really make a difference. And prices are still high—about on par with what you’d pay at one of the top steakhouses.

Your best bet here is probably to come during cocktail hour, take in a drink, and get some of the highly discounted fare. It’s only a tiny section of the menu that’s served at the bar, but prices are slashed by about 50%. As for drinks, there’s a big selection of “martinis,” such as a key lime pie martini or an espresso martini. Whatever happened to the real martini? The simple combination of gin and vermouth is magical, but “martini” nowadays basically means any drink that’s served in a martini glass. The wine list is slightly more promising, with a few more interesting bottles than you’ll find at other expensive steak-and-seafood institutions (three cheers for Grüner and Riesling!). Markups are high, but at least you can drink something more appropriate with your $50 crab than $70 oaky Chardonnay.

Service here is impeccable, but the interior is modern, overdressed, and extremely dark, full of big booths. The Arboretum branch is essentially similar—trying to look clubby and exclusive, when really it’s just overpriced. But we wouldn’t spend our money here if they cut all the prices in half. Enough said.

Comments (1)
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