Pflugerville’s Old Main Street is a mere blip in the obliterated landscape of box stores and McMansions. And yet, in one of the few remaining older buildings, is this impressively authentic bistro serving high-end, well-executed Eastern European specialties. The doilies and embroidery lend a somewhat overwhelming old-fashioned charm to the place, with its high ceilings and warm lighting. Service from a mostly Hungarian staff is attentive and earnest, and much of the menu is made from scratch. The soft, dense brown bread, alone, will send a European into wheeling nostalgia.

The menu dips into points west and east, as well: French sour cherry soup is creamy and sharp; Uzbek samosas are good, if not particularly spicy; German veal bratwurst with hot potato salad has great salty bacon accents; and a mild borscht hits all the right spots. Goulash, in both soup and stew form, comes with homemade dumplings. One of our favorites is stuffed cabbage, the leaves sweet and soft, the ground-pork filling scented with spices.

There are much better European wines at your corner wine shop than what’s on offer here; fortunately, there’s a low corkage fee. Beers in bottle are better, and there’s Paulaner Oktoberfest on tap...year-round. Approach the alarming selection of Tokaji by the glass with caution; unless the residents of Pflugerville (or the staff) have a respectable dessert wine fetish, these have probably been open forever.